Saturday, February 20, 2010

30 and Loving Life


So today's my birthday...my parents came in last night from Hatteras, my wife and mum made an awesome chocolate chip pancake and fresh fruit breakfast, and now everyone else is on a morning run to chip away at the massive amount of sugar and carbs we consumed. I am not. I plan on paddling out into the 45 degree flatness in a little while to freeze the calories off. Maybe I'll ride the new 6'6" Demo I just finished...
...maybe I'll take out the 42 Special my wife got me for birthday and shoot some underwater dinner items...first I'll have to finish drinking my cup of French Pressed Costa Rican coffee courtesy of my parents birthday gift...Life is beautiful and I feel completely surrounded with love and warmth partly due to my new Surf Camp birthday sweatshirt from Rick, Chelsea, and Erica. Most people get anxious and depressed and all sorts of emotional about getting older and hitting milestone birthdays, but I welcome it! I feel a sense of accomplishment thus far, well traveled, in love with an amazing wife, wonderful friends and family, sense of purpose passion and desire. Creative outlets, blessings, and salvation abound. I guess I'll just have to keep paying it forward and go shape another board...

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Snowlaia




So we got our one day of snow today which was pretty awesome. Jada and I threw snow balls at each other and built snow creatures which promptly melted before the sun went down. Her Snow Ness Monster chasing the swimming snow person was definitely the best, and my snow dude got in a sliding session before he collapsed into a puddle of water. Happy Snow day everyone!!!

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Demo Board

Sliding with Brian Weiler in Myrtle Beach during the Gum For My Boat premiere tour...

So many of fellow wave sliders here in Wilmington have seen me out and asked about the alaias...I even had the honor of writing an article for Local-Sessions Magazine which just came out. Some of my friends have even been brave enough to try it, but unfortunately only once. Since having just one wooden plank to ride just won't suffice (I left the 5'6" Pipe Bomb in Costa Rica for the ticos at Witches Rock Surf Camp) I reshaped the very first one my friend Richard made me. He gave me permission so no worries. I was going to just leave it for posterity but that's no fun. The pinched rails seem to be key in making the boards hold. The profile is a bit different though since I was only using what I had. What came out was a very narrow tailed board with very straight rails. It will be interesting to see how it goes with quite a bit of concave through the bottom.

The demo board I'm going to ride a few times, but will be going in Surf City Surf Shop down at Wrightsville Beach. Mike Barden has been kind enough to allow me to put a couple in there and see if anyone is willing to really give this a go, or at least hang it on their wall...yeah right!! They better not go on a wall! Once things start warming up, get your slide on!

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Gum For My Alaia

So Jesse Hines and I have been on the road the past few days premiering my good friend Russel Brownley's latest documentary "Gum For My Boat". We saw some good friends in Charleston thursday night at Christ Church in Mt Pleasant and surfed the washout at Folly at about head high straight onshore and pretty chunky, but super fun and cold. I almost puked after the first few duck dives from the shock of 50 degree water after a week and half in Costa. No hood...bad idea. Last night we had a phenomenal show at Beach Church in Myrtle Beach. Brian Weiler put on an awesome event and we about 300 people come out. Gave away clothes, a skateboard, surfboard, watches, and had a killer time. Even got to surf Murrel's Inlet this morning waist high and glassy on the Alaia.

Tonight we play Kefi's down by Wrightsville Beach but at the moment we're just hangin at the house rehearsing with our old pal Hank on the stand up bass. Lots of wood today shredding waves and making music! Things should settle down soon and I can crank out some more boards. In the meantime go check out Russ's film...www.gumformyboat.com

Monday, February 1, 2010

Costa Ricalaia

This will be short since i'm typing on Steve's iPod touch, but awesomeme nonetheless. As everyone frothed at the tablas
maderas, I caught some of the longest and funnest waves yet on the planks. I got so
Ludi's kids in Ostional to try them and they slid around a little but they loved it. Ludicrous has a super sweet place for guests to stay and Ostional is well known for their sea turtle population. It is truly one of the last gems In Costa rica just watch out for the huge bull sharks.

I fly home tomorrow but it's been an amazing trip. The camp was full of simply wonderful amazing people, pure joy and relaxation. I think I Learned a lot about the boards and had a killer time. I must admit I'm ready to get home to
my wife get back to snuggling throught the coldest month of the winter, which also hAppens to be the
month I turn 30...