Sunday, May 30, 2010

Broke Down Melody


We actually had waves this week...at least head high or bigger on Tuesday. I caught some great ones on the Lil Moli 5'10". Got pounded a couple times, but it was fully worth it. Unfortunately the swell dropped Wednesday but even still the low tide Masonboro barrel machine was working It was working so well it claimed the life of my number two. I had been singing all day long about how good that board was going. I even swapped with one of the local groms before the wind picked up. The rain and side shores cleared the 400 person lineup and as they all jumped in their boats and headed for land the sky turned orange, the wind went light offshore and the swell jumped two feet...just in time to snap the Lil Moli in half.

Yes, I was bummed. But I know what works for sure now, and the first wave I got upon hopping on my ol' faithful 6'0" In The Eye was a GRinDinG 5 second right hand barrel that just blew me away. I know for a fact that there is no way I would have made that wave on the alaia backside...sad but true. So while they aren't a replacement for the good old thruster, they are a nice challenge when the conditions get good, but the kind of challenge where if and when you do get barreled it feels 10 times as good!

Met a really cool guy out there named Julian Kehaya who snapped this little photo while the waves were pumping and the 5'10" sliding machine was still in one piece....also check out his website... http://kehayaphoto.com/

Monday, May 3, 2010

Update...

Well unfortunately there's not much to update on. I've been riding my planks around here when there's been waves and am now letting my back recover from sliding behind a boat with little sliding grom Jack. It's been a solid 2 or 3 weeks since I've been in the water, aside from a surf lesson and an injured back "well I guess I should try to surf" surf, which is a bummer because the weather has been so nice.

So to curb my boredom and give all you sliders out there an update, I threw together a little video to document and encapsulate my experience with riding the alaias as the 6 month mark has hit. It's nothing special and definitely does not include my best sessions, but it's fun and let's you know what to expect if you ever want to give it a try. Thanks to "Son House" for a bluesy spiritual in the background...enjoy!


Riding my Alaias: The first 6 months from J Sun Productions on Vimeo.